It had been a long few weeks. Isaac had been sick with some typhoid/malaria combination and that had left me on-call for anesthesia for a couple weeks straight. Then I added in Pediatric call starting September 2nd, so I was having lots of long days and late nights. So I was quite ready to wind-down into my weekend with no call, and when Paul proposed a trip to the village, I was all over it.
It was, as I’m learning, a typical Malian invitation. I was leaving the hospital just as he was arriving for his night shift. I stopped to talk with him, and the conversation switched to the weekend. He started talking about how he and Eclesiate were going to the village in which Ecle (A-klay; for short) grew up—Zamblala. And then—and this is the problem—some comment or question led me to believe I was invited to come along. But I don’t even remember what it was. It was definitely not a direct question, like “Do you want to come along?” It was way more subtle than that. So subtle, in fact, that driving away, I really began to wonder if I was really invited or whether I had just invited myself. Either way, I figured, their reaction to my “acceptance” (or self-invitation) had been positive.
That evening I ran my trip past some seasoned veterans in efforts to keep unexpected adventures to a minimum. They told me quite a bit about the town. One of the few places in Mali that is predominately Christian, as opposed to predominately Muslim; quite a friendly little town; take your own water; etc. Olive, a 30-year veteran of Mali living, wondered why the two guys were heading back to the village. Probably a young lady was involved, she mused. She recommended being prepared to spend the night. She called Ecle to make sure the road was good since I had agreed to drive. (Don’t worry, Jessica, the road was in really good condition and I took it nice and slow!)
The next morning I was up and preparing when the guys called to tell me they would be ready at 8:30. I threw together a bare-bones overnight bag. Change of clothes, toothbrush, deodorant, diarrhea medication… trying to fit all into a small little backpack. (I really dislike being the “white guy with all the luggage.) I took off, feeling quite ready to leave Koutiala. (I haven’t left Koutiala since arriving here in Mali, except for my wedding trip to Bamako and my vacation to Bobo. I was beginning to feel very confined.)
When I pulled up to pick up Paul and Ecle, I immediately knew something was not as I had expected. They were both dressed in their matching wedding shirts (from the previous wedding). They climbed in and we took off, while Ecle explained that the real reason for the trip to the village today was a wedding of his “big brother.” (Quotes because I think the guy was probably more like a distant cousin…) Sweet…thanks for the heads up, guys. And again, that nagging question, did I invite myself on this trip? Since weddings are more open-invite affairs here, I’ve learned to be a bit more comfortable going with friends to weddings without an invitation in hand, but inviting myself to the wedding of someone I don’t even know, is still a bit uncomfortable.
Luckily, I had packed a boubou (traditional West African formal wear) in case we had spent the night, much better attire for a wedding than my t-shirt. And I decided to trust in the unfailing hospitality of my hosts (self-invited or not). So we turned on the radio and enjoyed the ride. I had the guys help me rehearse my Bambara greetings, since there would be very few French speakers in the village. I’ll admit that my Bambara is terrible. In the hurry to acclimate and get to work, I spent all my energy working on learning other things. It is pretty pathetic that after 4 months in the country I can’t even properly greet people in Bambara (goes against everything I believe…really), but finally, it is starting to come.
After 15 kilometers on paved road, we pulled off onto a dirt, donkey-cart path and went another 10 kilometers. The road was narrow and surrounded by shrubs and millet and corn fields, but the surface was even and the going was smooth. We had to stop several times to figure out how to get around an on-coming donkey cart. And the best was when we came around a corner and stopped suddenly in front of an on-coming cattle plow-team, led by a boy that couldn’t be more than 7. It took him a full five minutes to get the team off the road, being less than 1/8 the size of even one of the cows. We probably should have helped, but we were too busy laughing and digging out my camera to take a picture of him pushing and pulling with all his might on the stubborn beasts.

[This picture made possible by me sitting in my car laughing, instead of helping the poor kid!]
Pulling up to the village, we had to drive over the narrow dam that has created rice fields for the village. The village itself is little collections of houses, interspersed with huge mango trees and fields of corn, millet, and cotton. Healthy looking chickens, pigs, and goats were everywhere. I’m not an expert on village living, but I would say this village was doing well for itself.
We parked the car in front of the compound of Ecle’s grandfather. The compound is a large, walled-in area that has houses for the grandfather and his sons. There were easily 80 people in the compound that morning. And the greeting began. And the greeting continued. This is what we did for the vast majority of the morning. We greeted, we sat for the appropriate length of time in their presence, and then we were off to the next family. We traveled the village on foot, meeting countless people, visiting the schools, the small health clinic, and the church. At each place, there was the rush to find chairs for us, to properly welcome us.
After our first few stops, Paul and Ecle began to explain that the village was very on-edge that morning because the bride had not shown up. (She was from a village a ways away.) Normally she should have come the day before, in order to have been there for the all-night party. They had thrown the party anyways, but preparations for the wedding were at a stand-still that morning. Some imagined an accident, others that the parents of the bride were playing some trick to get more gifts and money from the groom. A delegation had been sent to find her.
This was eliciting complaints from everyone, at every stop. Some of the concern was for the groom—the shame and disappointment of a failed wedding. Some of it—coming from the women—was over when to start preparing the food. And some was over the delay of an anticipated event. These events are clearly a highlight of life in the village, and people wanted to get on with the party. Paul and Ecle, who had worked all night, wanted to get on with it so that they could get home and sleep.
It was while walking around the village, visiting, greeting, and guessing with Ecle and Paul what had happened to the bride that the reality of my situation washed over me. I would occasionally get a similar feeling in Utah. It would come when I was driving on the interstate with a clear view of the mountains, I would suddenly catch my breath, and it would wash over me again—their grandeur, their majestic beauty—as if I was seeing them again for the first time. It was the same here. I looked at the blue sky lit up with a blazing sun, the palms and mango trees framed with white clouds, and the red dirt of paths and mud huts. And I felt like I should pinch myself. “I’m in Africa,” I thought. I’ve dreamed of this all my life, and here I am. I felt very blessed.
Around noon, the bride finally arrived. The story I heard is that a car was supposed to bring her to the village, but there were too many people wanting to go, so they had to take two trips. So they left the bride and her attendant and took the other people first. Very funny, but strangely not surprising.
We retired to Ecle’s compound. We sat in the shade of a room and talked for a while, not knowing when the wedding would start. And here I observed yet another fascinating thing about village life. All of a sudden, Paul and Ecle got up and said that it was time to go to the church. No one had come in to announce this. There was no ringing of bells or PA announcement, no phone calls, no text messages. I can only assume they heard people talking about it outside. We took off for the church and were some of the first to arrive, but less than two minutes later, the whole village was there. Much like the beats in music that they hear and I don’t, there is some kind of rhythm in the village life that I just am not tuned into.
We all entered the church just as the rain began to fall. And it came hard. The racket made it hard to hear the service, but Paul, sitting right next to me, was translating most of it into French for me, and he seemed to be able to understand enough of what was going on.
The ceremony was shorter than the one in Bamako. And after the service, we all made mad dashes back to the village for cover. Paul, Ecle and I ate in a back room of one of the houses. The food was excellent. A rice-and-sauce dish with pork and noodles with chicken. We ate and then brewed tea to drink. The rain continued to fall hard. I began to have fears that the road would wash out and that’d we would be stranded.
The rain slowed towards the evening and so we said our goodbyes, picked our way through the mud to the car, and took off. The road was very muddy on the way back, but still very much intact. We made it back without problems, and I dropped the guys off at their home. I thanked them for a great day, and they promised we’d do it again soon. I look forward to it.
[Ecle and I eating dinner.]

[Ecle and Paul]